I’m getting very attached to the Peak District National Park. The more time I spend there, the more I’d like to spend there.
Last week I drove through the western side of the park, past signposts to Wildboarclough and then past the Goyt Valley, through Buxton (the Bath of the North? Or is Bath the Buxton of the South?), and then on through the almost-Cheddar-Gorge-like valley between Sparrowpit and Castleton on my way to the Upper Derwent Valley.
I spent bits of three days in the area, with a visit to a Hen Harrier site in north Wales thrown in for good measure. On one passage through Doveholes I stopped at a roadside diner, Katy’s Diner, for breakfast.
Katy’s is a posh roadside diner – a portakabin type of affair with tables and rather nice plastic seats. It reminded me, a bit. of all those diners I have frequented in the USA but here the accents were not southern, or mid-West, but definitely northern.
I was told that this diner has been in place for over 17 years and it felt a bit like a local institution too. RT Mycock Concrete Supplies had an advert on the wall but I was more interested in a firm foundation of breakfast so I ordered bacon, sausage, beans, egg, black pudding, toast and a mug of tea.
The food was delicious and very good value at £4.25 all in.
I only noticed that Derbyshire oatcakes were on the menu after I ordered and slightly regretted not having my breakfast on an oatcake base. Still, you can’t have everything, and Red Grouse wasn’t on the menu either. Katy’s had clearly heeded the advice of Ethical Consumer magazine and is shunning grouse.
The conversation was of the up-and-coming Tour de Glossop when some cyclists were going to whizz past. I gather they were lost and were supposed to be in France.
I couldn’t help thinking back to breakfasts in South Carolina, California, Illinois and Utah (twice).
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The Peak District is lovely. I know, I live there. We have peregrines now and then, and last week I saw a red kite for the first time, as well as beautiful spiraling, sky-weaving buzzards. We hope for ospreys at Carsington and there was a rumour of a goshawk quite close to me.
We have great landscapes too. Drive through the Chatsworth estate and marvel. And you should see the moors when the heather is in flower. Nothing but purple and honey bees and high empty sky.
I wouldn’t live here if I was a hen harrier though. Or a peregrine or a buzzard. When I saw that kite my first thought was, Who else has seen you? How long will you last?
The thing about Hen Harrier Day is, who knows what a hen harrier is around here? Hardly any one. (And I am guessing that lack of knowledge also covers the local press.) People know what a bird of prey is though, and all the upland birds of prey need help.
I’m not criticising, I’m just saying. You’re doing more than me (I just grumble) so hats off to you and Mr P. We’ll be there if we can.
But what about the rest? I worry more about the rest than I do about hen harriers. I am absolutely certain not a single H H will be persecuted in the Peak District in the near future. Wish I felt as safe about the buzzards, peregrines and kites.
Well surprise when seeing blog today the lay-by where you stopped was bordering brother-in laws land.
Some nasty people named it the worst village in the country,it is known for its Bull Ring which is a Neolithic Henge I believe.
O H lived on outskirts of village until we married.
Dennis – what a coincidence! I love things like that!
If they looked a bit like a pancake they were really North Staffordshire oatcakes I think! We have a bit of the Peak District here in Staffordshire – our bit is lovely too!
Guess the valley you mention is very steep and called Winnets which was not used hardly at all until the former road fell away completely on what is called Mam Tor which is also named shivering mountain as it moves substantially.
Around this area is the Blue John mines which is the rarest stone in the world and not found anywhere except just around Castleton.
I’ve cycled Winnat’s pass a few times – it’s rather challenging. I seem to remember it’s also haunted by the ghosts of two young lovers. I hadn’t realised the Blue John Caverns were nearby; I went to them as a child.
I agree the Goyt Valley is a beautiful area and would be more so for the presence of more raptors. Were you aware of the 2011 Hen Harrier breeding attempt in this area (http://raptorpolitics.org.uk/2011/06/07/derbyshires-only-hen-harriers-destroyed-along-with-their-clutch-of-7-eggs/)? A notorious incident that still rankles the local birders.
Rob – I am going to mention that in due course! thank you.